El Sol de San Telmo GuestHouse

El Sol de San Telmo (1181 Chacabuco) reminds me of a building where I lived with my art student girlfriend (now wife) in the mid 1970s in bohemian Westbourne Grove, London (near Notting Hill). It was a former grand house, which had seen better days.  We lived in a large room at the front of the house. Like the dance studio/ kitchen at 1181, the room had a pair of French doors, leading onto a balcony overlooking the street. On the top floor lived a fashion designer(I recall having tea with her and Celia Birtwell - immortalised in David Hockney’s “Mr & Mrs Clark & Percy” - however I digress!).For me the great advantage of staying at 1181 was not only that it is affordable and in San Telmo, but that I could enjoy the company of the other guests.  These included those from the Northern Hemisphere - escaping long winters and short days, young back packers - travelling South America on a budget and of course the Tango dancers.One could pay 3 times the price for a luxury apartment in Recoletta - as I have done on a previous visit, but this could be a lonely experience for a lone traveller; whereas within  2 hours of arriving at 1181, I had been invited to share a cab to a Milonga!Some of the reviews mentioned noise - I really cannot comment! Being the inhabitant of a small cottage in the Northumbrian countryside, whenever I stay in a city - I use Moldex earplugs!However, early one evening in January I did hear the sound of drumming. I went out onto San Juan to discover teenagers practicing for a procession. At the head of the procession were girls dancing. The main body of the troupe were boys with marching band drums, topped with cymbals. Behind them were boys dancing with the wild kicks of Capoeira.With that fond memory in mind, I look forward to my next visit in a few weeks time.

Some travellers return to El Sol de San Telmo each year, and stay for several months. I have been one of them, and will return again this year. What is it about El Sol that brings visitors back, and causes them to stay long? The first draw is cost - El Sol is a hostel, offering competitive priced accommodation in a shared house. If you expect hotel facilities, find a quiet hotel and pay hotel rates. El Sol offers budget rooms that share a bathroom and communal kitchen, but I always book an en suite at a slightly higher rate. The second draw is location. Yes, El Sol is at the Av San Juan end of Chacabuco on a busy bus route, but on the plus side is a stone's throw from Plaza Dorrego, Defensa and the other delights of San Telmo. The third draw is the friendliness of Fabrizio, the proprietor. He creates a relaxed place to stay and fosters easy contact with other residents. For travellers and tangueros (rather than holiday makers) - El Sol ticks the boxes. Check out the prices for accommodation in the barrio de San Telmo, compare, then decide whether El Sol is for you. As far as I am concerned, it is great for me and has been during my five months residence over two years.